In this story from the past we remain in the winter idyll – this time we remember the beautiful ascent to Veliki Draški vrh (2243m) in the Julian Alps. In winter it is known as a destination for great ski touring but with addition of some climbing details it can also be interesting and exciting for the hiking trips.
We arrived at Pokljuka (Rudno Polje) the day before to overnight in the car and to secure an early start in the morning. The main amount of snow fell at the beginning of the week and the forecast was promising. Some leftover snowflakes slowly stoped falling and starry sky started to reveal to us, announcing that tomorrow will be a beautiful and sunny day. Trail started from a very high 1344 meters, from the parking lot, so arriving a day before was not really a necessity. However, short winter days still require some preparation – otherwise you will walk in the afternoon with your headlights on when returning from the mountain (if that is not exactly what you want 😄).
We knew that fresh snow was waiting for us and that we would probably be the first to make the path, but each climb carries some challenges and if this is today’s, so be it. It was also a mild winter this year but we still hoped we’ll have the opportunity to climb through Gamsova grapa (ravine, couloir) in Ablanca peak(2004m), which we have already climbed several times – if the snow was good in the couloir today or if there was any snow at all!
Pokljuka is a popular starting point for easy and popular peak Viševnik (2050m) and is also the top location for professional and recreational cross-country skiing – a Slovenian center for cross-country skiing and biathlon is located here, the World Cup and various other competitions are held here too. There was no shortage of people in Pokljuka that day (or any day actually) but those who really planed on going to some of the more distant peaks, such as Tosc (2275m) or Veliki and Mali Draški Vrh (2132m), were nowhere to be found that day – we were alone.
The alternative to these peaks is to depart from Uskovnica mountain or from Koča na Uskovnici (1154m), from Bohinj side, but this is only possible in months without snow as it is accessible by a white road which does not get snowplowed as a road to Pokljuka does. This trail also offers some great trekking tours – and if that’s not enough the option is even to climb the highest mountain of Julian Alps, Triglav, for those who can pull it off.
Initially we walked on the marked path, There was little snow on a path which meat a quick arrival to the mountain Konjščica (1438m) where the first view of Ablanca, VDV and MDV opened. Of course, my desires immediately fell into the water because Gamsova grapa (couloir) was not sufficiently covered by the snow. It seemed we were taking the usual route to Jezerce and then to Studor pass. The couloir is not a climbing challenge but one still must be careful. When the conditions are appropriate it is a really nice detail in this climb. In addition to the visible direction through the first part of the couloir, I will mention two other common (and natural) options. The first is going a sharp left from wide part of the couloir (after exiting the first part of the couloir), leading to the small vertical rocks (which are more or less demanding depending on the amount of snow) – and this brings you almost to the very top of Ablanca. The second option is slightly to the right, following the natural grooves of the couloir that will practically throw you out to the Studor pass in height – you should climb this very carefully because the exit leads you to a low pine and quite a slope that can be deceptive looking from below – this is not the place to try your crampons and ice axes for the first time.
As the couloir was not an option, we progressed relatively quickly to the Studor pass and didn’t even notice that there was more snow there and that we were facing a serious challenge – both in terms of finding the right path to the summit and in terms of spending our energy on breaking through the snow. On the saddle, we took a short rest and visually searched for the best direction of the climb. We realized that, in addition to the pile of untouched snow, there was a strong wind – it seemed that instead of some medium climb as far as effort is concerned, today was something we will remember!
We moved through the low pine trees along the ridge and gently waded through, wrapped in every piece of clothing we had. Crampons were still in our packs because we were in a deep snow – it seemed we couldn’t get out of this snowy mess quite yet. Regardless of the apparent anguish the views were becoming more incredible as we climbed and still, we were aware that the best is yet to come – we will get to see Triglav (286m) from the summit and the massive rock of Rjavina (2532m), as well as the rest of the rocky world north of us. We were constantly turning as the view opened to Spodnje Bohinjske gore (smaller mountain range south of the lake Bohinj). Along the way I thought about how such climbs always fill me with energy. Although it sounds like a washed out phrase, the harder the climb is the happier or more proud we are when we finish it. We always learn something along the way, something new about ourselves and why we love this so much.
I always remember our threat, or maybe a promise in a way, that we made when we came for our first vacation in Bohinj and took a picture next to the lake Bohinj. We immediately said we will climb all these peaks that can be seen in the background – coincidence or not, standing out in that panorama were Tosc, VDV and Ablanca, and as we stood on top of each in some point in time, I can say that the threat was fulfilled – no matter how empty it sounded then😄!
The last few meters to the top were filled with strong wind and a harder, snowy surface but we made it to the summit without crampons. The panoramas could only be described by photos but as a nasty wind was blowing, we didn’t give our best in our photo shooting. We have spent all our energy reserves in this snowy and windy climb. Tired and hungry at the top, we ate fast until our hands were completely frozen. Few minutes later we started to descend, as the clouds played with the mountain spikes all around us.
Of course, in accordance with my eternal optimism, I throwed in the idea that in our descent we should take a quick climb to Viševnik and lengthen our return with some circular route. The look I got from her made it clear to me that none of that was going to happen and that I need to shut my mouth and just keep walking down through the snow 😅. Not discouraged, secretly I was looking and mind mapping the couloir in Tosc and already working on a plan for a new challenge – a challenge that I will present to her at the right moment, perhaps already next weekend😊.
Down by our car we almost couldn’t believe that we spent the day without people, in the clean and beautiful wilderness. It became clear to us how special this day was, but also that it has come to an end. It took us a few hours to drive home, but it passed quickly in reflecting this climb, reviewing photos and planning our new trips.
Before I started writing a story from the past, I wondered if I had enough inspiration to put together a page about something long passed? Will I even remember some of the details and feelings I experienced that day? But it seems that, as soon as I start writing, I realize that some things remain in my memory – some foggy, some not. Apparently the things you lived through, really lived through, remain forever…